Past Fits Present

Photography by Scrill Davis

In the early 2000s, the NBA draft was as much a fashion spectacle as it was a pivotal moment in sports. In 2003, rising stars like LeBron James, Dwyane Wade, and Carmelo Anthony graced the stage in suits that were emblematic of the era, which translated to oversized, audacious, and undeniably bold. These ensembles, characterized by their loose fits and multiple buttons, captured the flair of the time but were later critiqued as fashion missteps. Yet, as with many trends, the pendulum swings back, and today, the “long suit” is somewhat experiencing a renaissance.

Reflecting on this evolution, I find myself drawn to the resurgence of baggier suiting. My personal journey with suits began during my tenure at Indochino, a men’s tailoring company originating from Vancouver. There, I immersed myself in the world of slim-fitting, tailored suits that epitomized modern elegance. The emphasis was on precision, leaving little room for excess fabric. This aesthetic dominated my wardrobe for years, symbolizing a commitment to what I considered a sleek and contemporary style.

However, as time progressed, so did my sartorial preferences. The confines of slim tailoring began to feel restrictive, both physically and stylistically. I wanted to prioritize comfort without compromising on style, leading me to revisit the looser fits reminiscent of the early 2000s. Okay, maybe not as loose but you get the point. This shift wasn’t merely about nostalgia; it was about embracing a silhouette that felt more in tune with my current self.

2003 NBA Draft featuring Carmelo Anthony, Chris Bosh, Dwyane Wade, Lebron James and many others.

The cultural landscape mirrors this personal transition. The 2025 Met Gala, themed “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” is set to celebrate Black dandyism, a movement that bridges elegance, individuality, and cultural expression. This theme acknowledges the significance of tailoring in Black fashion history, while highlighting how style serves as both a personal statement and a cultural artifact. As the Met Gala approaches, I eagerly anticipate the diverse interpretations of this theme. Will certain attendees pay homage to the oversized suits of the 90s-2000s NBA draft, reimagining them with contemporary flair? Will they explore afrofuturistic designs that propel Black dandyism into new dimensions? The possibilities are boundless and the conversation between past and present styles promises to be rich and enlightening.

In revisiting the “long suit,” I also reflect on personal memories. As a child, I recall my mother’s insistence on purchasing suits a few sizes too large, with the expectation that I would “grow into them.” At the time, this idea frustrated me deeply as I longed for the sharp, fitted appearance that seemed just out of reach. Now, embracing the looser silhouettes of yesteryears feels like a full-circle moment, almost like a reconciliation of past circumstances with present comfort.

This resurgence of baggy suits is more than a fleeting trend; it signifies a broader movement towards versatility and self-expression in fashion. It challenges the thought that elegance is confined to tailored precision, opening the door for interpretations that prioritize comfort, individuality, and a touch of nostalgia. As we witness this style’s revival on runways and red carpets, it’s evident that the “long suit” is not just making a comeback, but it’s reclaiming its place in the sartorial narrative.

In embracing this evolution, I find a renewed passion for suiting (okay, not really). While my daily attire may lean towards streetwear and vintage varsity pieces, the admiration for a sharp suit that marries past and present aesthetics still lingers. It’s a testament to fashion’s cyclical nature and its ability to adapt, reinterpret, and resonate across generations (Gen-Z loves baggy).

As we stand at the intersection of nostalgia and innovation, the revival of the baggy suit serves as a reminder that style is a celebration of where we’ve been, where we are, and the exciting possibilities that lie ahead.